For the current brief which I have been talking about for a while now one of the tasks was to write an essay on the issues surrounding sustainability. Here is my essay:
Sustainability
is an issue that is becoming more and more important in the world of fashion,
and more and more brands are designing their labels and collections around this
issue. Sustainable design is where the
environment, workers and ethics are considered and cared for throughout the
whole process, or at least an element of it.
Eco-conscious methods and fabrics are very important to the designers
that support this issue with every step though out the design cycle considered
to make sure that their carbon footprints among other issues are kept to a
minimum. There is a saying that states:
‘Clothes are as much to
dress the body as they are to dress the mind’
In my opinion this explains ethical
and sustainable fashion perfectly and describes the feeling that it gives us;
clothes without the guilt trip.
The most predominant designers that
support this issue are people such as Stella McCartney, Edun and Gary
Harvey. They have created their brands
around their personal interests and concerns for the environment and also the
world that our future generations will have to live in. They use sustainable methods, fabrics or
recycled materials to make their brand ethical and sustainable. Stella McCartney is a strong supporter of
this issue and it has been reported that she stated her ethic terms in her
contract. She has described her brand’s
sustainability by saying:
“I
would always touch on an element of a sustainable or eco collection in
everything that I do. So in my lingerie collection, I have a part of the
collection that is organic, or with my Adidas collaboration again there are
organic materials or recycled materials in the bags or shoes, and every part of
my design at some stage comes into contact with that.”
It is my belief that this shows that
she takes the issue of sustainability very seriously and incorporates it into
everything that she does in one way or another.
Another designer who is currently at the forefront of sustainable fashion
is Christopher Raeburn. He creates men’s
and women’s wear out of old military fabrics.
His AW10 collection was featured in American Vogue, where they told us
all to:
‘Remember the four R’s:
Reduce, Reuse, Recycle and Raeburn’.
To me this shows that the work he is
creating is recognised and is creating the publicity for sustainable fashion
that is needed. His garments are made
out of old army garments, parachutes and more; if that wasn’t enough to give
him the sustainable designer title then the fact that he uses all the discarded
fabric to create hand-sewn rabbits really shows his dedication to the ethics of
fashion. Fashion Personalities such as
Gok Wan have also taken sustainable fashion on board he has said:
“Don’t be
constrained by a garments primary identity. Think outside the box and use your
existing wardrobe to create new pieces”
This
shows that it is not just designers that have the responsibility to support
sustainable fashion it is also people in the public eye that will be able to
promote the ethical message. The amount
of designers concerned with this issue is quickly growing and now there is even
a section of fashion week devoted to these green brands referring to them as
the ‘Green Shows’ and ‘Estethica’. Designers such as Ada Zanditon, Christopher Raeburn and Monsoon show in
this section of the week.
Sustainability has become so important
to the world and many designers due to the impact that years of not caring has
had on the environment. With the
environment now fighting back, and issues such as fossil fuels running out and
the hole in the ozone layer becoming more important to people who previously
took no notice, they are forced to think about them and make changes to the
impact that they personally create.
Situations that make this subject so important are based around the way
different things are manufactured; there is the way that fabrics are manufactured
for example, Silkworms are boiled and killed so that they don’t damage the silk
cocoon, this is a big concern in silk production and even though there isn’t an
organic silk option available things such as Peace Silk (where the silkworms
aren’t killed) mean that we can make a choice between how we want our fabric to
be manufactured. Then there are also the
insecticides and pesticides that are used on things such as cotton crop, these
chemicals can kill other insects and animals which are unnecessary deaths and
damage to the environment. This damage
is shown shockingly in the depletion of the Aral sea, where the issue is shown
to us clearly through the way it is deteriorating. If customers had the opportunity to buy the
organic and ethical choices, it would mean a stop to the damaging ways of
production that are around now, meaning that hopefully the ethical production
methods will become a bigger part of our society.
In my belief it is important for
designers to take responsibility for their choices within their brand. This is because customers have no choice in
the way that the products they buy are manufactured, even though they could buy
the organic and ethical options there is not that many out there to choose
from, therefore if designers made sustainability a priority in at least one
part of their brand, it will give customers the incentive to buy sustainable
items and help to change the impact that other methods have on the
environment. If they were to all follow
in the footsteps of brands such as Asos, Topshop and George who have assigned a
section of their companies to the organic and ethical methods this incentive
might be created. If designers were to
include these ethical methods customers will be able get the items they want
with the satisfaction of knowing that it is ethical. Stella McCartney once said:
‘I enjoy it when
customers look at an item and think ‘I love that’ and then later realise that
it is environmentally friendly’.
To me this shows her dedication to
sustainability and her love of creating ethic garments that her customers will
love.
Designers have the responsibility to
stop the unethical methods of manufacture from continuing. They have the responsibility to stop the
promotion of these methods and promote the more ethical and socially acceptable
methods instead. That is why it is my
belief that it is more important than ever for designers to take responsibility
for their actions and their impact on the environment.
To introduce these changes we all have
to be open-minded and patient but hopefully, the industry will eventually
become parallel with sustainability. In
her book ‘Sustainable Fashion and
Textiles’ Kate Fletcher said:
‘A zero-waste vision for
the fashion and textile sector changes the goals and rules of the bigger industrial
system and aligns them with sustainability.
It requires a bold and innovative set of changes to the way our fibres
and fabrics (as part of society at large) are designed, produced, consumed and
discarded.’
It is
my belief that this explains how every cog in the industry has to change to
make the goal of ethical production possible and that even though a huge part
of the problem is in the designers hands the customer also has to think about
how wasteful they are being with the way that they look after the garment and
discard of it.
My research and beliefs have made me
come to the conclusion that sustainability is a growing trend not only in the
world of fashion but in manufacture and other industries as well. In my belief designers have the responsibility
to include sustainability in their brands whether it is just the carrier bags
they supply made of recycled materials or choosing organic and recycled fabrics
to create their garments, anything they do will make a positive impact in a
world damaged by the inexperience of the generations before us.
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