Thursday, 6 October 2011

Fly Zip

In our last pattern cutting lesson we looked at inserting a fly zip.  I found this really interesting as it is the first zip that I have tried which uses separate pieces as well as the zip and main garment pieces.

Here is how I did it:

Sew the crotch area 1.5cm seam allowance up to the fly notch.

 Then notch around the curve.

 Sew the two Placket/Fly Shield pieces together along the curved edge with 1.5cm seam allowance.

 Reduce the bulk.

 Bag out the Placket/Fly Shield, iron and overlock the straight edge.

 Overlock the curved edge of the Fly Facing.

 Fold down the top of shorts and sew in the fly facing down to the fly notch.  Reduce bulk making sure that you curve the bottom.

 Press the Fly facing open.

 Measure 2cm above the bottom of the fly facing and place the zip on face down to the stopper lines up with this point.  Make sure that the edge of the zip lines up with the seam that was just created.

Tack the zip to the facing and fold up the bottom of the tape.

Secure the zip by sewing down the middle of the zip tape and curve the line under the stopper.

Press the other side of the zip opening under 0.9cm until just above the fly notch.

 Tack the zip tape to the newly pressed opening and close the zip to make sure it lies flat.

Pin the Placket/Zip Shield to the back of the zip making sure it covers all the zip.

Sew a line of stitching as close to the edge of the fabric as possible.

 Remove the tacking.

This is the finished Fly Zip.

To add some extra finishing touches to the zip secure all the layers together using a short line of stitching; making sure you go over it  few times to secure it.

 You can also sew through the layers on the inside making sure that you leave the front layer so the stitches aren't seen.

Why don't you give it a try?

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