Tuesday, 27 March 2012

Patterning and Constructing my Orb Weaver Shorts Toile

Today I have been constructing my Orb Weaver Shorts.  I had already patterned them on a previous day but here is the process that I have been through so far.

To create my patterns I used a leggings/stretch block.

I only traced of the block to part way down the thigh as I didn't need it any longer than this.

Then I used the mannequin to measure the length of the shorts down the outside and inside leg and then drew on the new hem line.

I then checked to see the shape of the shorts on the mannequin.  I was really pleased with the silhouette and I think that the shape will work really well.

As I am using lyrca the best way to sew the seams is to overlock them so I had to reduce the seam allowance to 0.5cm.

I cut out my pattern pieces and decided that I would add a side seam so I cut the pattern pieces along the fold (this meant that there was no seam allowance but I thought I would see how they turned out)

I overlocked the pieces together down the centre front, centre back, the seam at the crotch and side seams.

I noticed that there was a little hole where part of the fabric hadn't been caught in.  To fix this problem I went back in with the overlocking making sure that I cut some off in order to catch it in.

As the waist was baggy I turned the shorts inside out and fitted them to the mannequin by taking them in at the seams.

I then market these adjustments onto my patterns.

 The shorts now fitted.

One problem I had was a slightly bubbling along the centre back seam, this was due to a curve in the overlocking so I went back in and smoothed the overlocking out to make this area lie flat.

I wasn't pleased with the shape of leg holes so I addapted these slightly on both my toile and my patterns.

The next step was to finish the leg holes to do this I overlocked them then I folded the edge under and top stitched them.

One problem I had was that the leg holes were slightly raised away from the mannequin but as it isn't much I believe that this will lie flat on a pesos body.

The next step is to finish the waist line.

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